Tag Archives: 420

The Fridgegrow – closed loop growing with co2 support

Weed in a fridge

Flowering cannabis in a fridge
Cannabis that was grown in a fridge using the fridge grow

So when people think about starting to grow weed, they usually look at it from the beneficial side: It would cost less than the shady park vendor or the dispensary in nearly every case, especially when quality is taken into account. The overall quality is more controllable. Plus: In a world with PGRs, terpene spray, brix or artifical cannabinoids its still recommended by me to rather grow at home, than buying stuff simply because the packaging looks shiny.

The fridgegrow controller tries to fill a gap in the homegrow segment. Its not a fullblown all-in-one closet where you have little to no options in terms of light or nutrition, but its also not a tent, where you usually have to deal with environmental values as they come. When the door to the fridge is closed, its not possible to exchange air or even water from inside the fridge. (disclaimer: this is only half-true, but for simplicity we will assume this for that article.) You will have to bring some ingenuity into the operation!

The fridgegrow setup uses a few key elements to keep the environmental values in check:

The fridge

A fridge is able to lower the temperature inside its volume, without exchanging air inside the fridge. Lowering the temperature lowers the possible maximum of moisture the air can hold, water will condense on the cold backwall of the fridge and trickle down…
The fridges total power has to “work” against the grow lights total power, and therefore should be able to “outfreeze” the heat.
The fridge is not included in the system. I recommend to buy a beverage fridge for commercial usage with a closed front. You want to keep the light out. Make sure, that the fridge has as much power as you can get. Its easier to hold the values this way. Heres a fridge from amazon with a clear front, that has to be masked first.

A small heating element

A heater is able to work against the fridge to keep the relative humidity up. In a perfectly dialed in fridgegrow setup the heater will almost never run during the light-on phases, because light and fridge should cancel each other out AND holding onto certain humidity levels while doing so. This is also dependend on the total amount of water inside the fridge chamber.

The perfect light – crescience modular fluXengine LED built

There is no reasoning here for anything else than a high efficient LED setup. No asian amazon light or HPS light will be acceptable if your plan is to grow cannabis in here. Make sure you are able to remove the driver and try to place it outside the fridge. One thing I love about that built is, that I get to chose the light, and its not prebuilt in here!

LED grow light and flowering cannabis in a fridge
Crescience DIY LED setup -3x fluXengine board-style repping the Samsung LM301B chips aswell as a Meanwell – ELG-150-24A

For my fridge I have chosen a modular LED solution by Crescience. Crescience is known for their modularity and compatibilty to standardsized aluminium-framing. Its super-easy to build and you can actually achieve tailored photon-outputs for every system ever.
I am running 3 of their fluxEngines (link goes to the updated lm301h version) powered by a Meanwell ELG-150-24-A Driver.

Some thoughts about the fridge-light-interaction

The principle of continuity says: What goes in has to come out. This is true for everything that has a flow to it. In the case of the fridge one puts energy as heat into the system via the grow light and the heating element. The vapor-compression element on the back of the fridge is able to get heat out of the system and will transport it away through the heatpipes on the back of the fridge. Thats also the reason a fridge is hot in the back and cold inside. Our limiting factor for our light is the fridges compressor efficiency. If our fridge cant transport the heat away through its compressor the inside of the fridge will heat up endlessly, which will result in darkness since the controller will always try to save the plants, no matter if its “daytime” or “nighttime”. This means we need the most efficient and cool running light setup in here. A commercial beverage fridge for business will have a power draw between 90 and 150W from the wall. The light you use should draw a bit less than that.

Air circulation

Small fans directed at the back of the fridge are also an important element in this setup. It keeps the watercycle running smooth and steady. I have chosen Arctic 120mm PC-Fans . I connected them via a 4-way 3-pin fan-connector in parallel and a 12V/2A powersupply. If you are not sure about that, ask an electrician how to wire it.

fans in front of a fridge grow
Arctic PC-Coolers keep the air circulation going in the fridgegrow.

vertical nets or other vertical scrog systems

Keeps your growth in check! I had a few leafs touching the backwall of the fridge keeping the water from dripping down. This results in considerable pieces of ice in there, although its almost 30°C while the lights are on! Ice is bad. It binds water and takes it out of the waterloop.
I gave my plants only 4 glasses of water – in 67 days of growing. And this is a problem.

Scrog in a fridge
Basket-ScrOG system – the grow-space is very limited, so you have to expose as much buds as possible to direct light.

Feeding plants in a closed loop system

While a small windowsill plant doesnt need much to stay green and vital, cannabis under a blasting sun-replacement will transpire significantly more and will therefore have a much increased need of moisture. The trick is to catch the condensing droplets from the back of fridge and guide them back into the pots. Even if youre not able to do that perfectly, the water will still stay in the system, because of the fridges isolation. All you need to do is to close the small hole in the lower back of the fridge, where drops usually get vaporized through the compressor on the back. We dont want that, so we close the loop with a sheet of metal, guiding it back into the pots. This also has disadvantages: Im used to give diluted water-nutrition solution to my plants. Bio Bizz usually is diluted in a way that about 1-5ml of nutritional concentrate gets mixed with one liter of water. This is of course only true for system where the soil can dry out a bit and this wont happen in a fridge setup. You have to put in higher concentration (same amount of nutrition but on a glass of water) or you go for solid nutrition like greenhouse feeding or pre-grow formulas like Biotabs Organics.

I hold my plants in 3 gal smart-pots. Pathological amounts of greenhouse bio bloom and some biobizz was given, but i wasnt really able to conquer the ramping deficiencies my plants developed.

nutrient defincency on cannabis plant in fridge
Leaf discoloration and washed out leaf-tips: this plant was craving for nutrition.

Controlling CO2 – hacking sodamax/sodastream bottles

This is the first setup I was able to make use of extra CO2 inside a grow room. You first need to buy a CO2 bottle, that gets usually used for gassing up beverages mixed together in the kitchen. This bottle is under a standard pressure of about 6 Bar. The first connection has to go to a pressure-bottle adaptor. This adaptor is then connected to a pressure-reducer unit. The reason for that is the next element: its the actual CO2 valve that lets CO2 flow into the system: The CO2-magnet-valve that can be controlled electrical by the fridge-grow controller.

pressure limiter system
CO2 pressure-reducer: left you can see that the bottle-pressure is below 1BAR, so it will have to be replaced soon! On the left is the pressure measured, that lies between the magnetic-valve and the pressure-reducer: theres still CO2 available! But a second bottle would come in handy…

The Fridgegrow-Controller

This is the heart of the system. Its basically a mixture between a server (with a UI to check data and setup the environment ) and a controller. In principle the controller is just turning bluetooth-powerplugs on and off whenever temperature, humidity needs to be dialed in, lights to be turned on and off, or to open and close the CO2 valve. The system is pretty much plug and play and can be setup even if youre not really techsavvy.

fridgegrow controller
The fridgegrow-controller . In the back you can see the droplets of water that will eventually flow back into the soil. On the right-hand-side of the controller is the casing for the temperture and humidity sensor.

The controller will react to different parameters that are more or less dependent on each other. It will find a more or less stable cycle dependent on set values and the amount of water in the system.

Fridge-control

The fridge reacts to two central reading: humidity and temperature. It will turn ON when ever the current humidity rises above the set value AND the temperature is high enough.
In this case that means that the temperature is at its set level or at max. 2x below the set hysteresis. A hystersis-value is the margin a value can go above or beyond.
So if you setup the fridge to hold a temperature between 24°C and 28°C (Thats 26°C with a hysteresis of 2°C) and relative humidity between 65% and 75% (set 70% with a hysteresis of 5%) the fridge will only start running when the humidity exceeds 75% while the fridge is between 22°C and 26°C.
The fridge will turn off when values below 70% relative humidity are reached or the temp drops below 22°C which is 2x the hysteresis. You can see easily that reaching the right relative humidity is dependent on the amount of water in the system. The fridge will never get below certain values if theres too much water to condensate.

Light control

This one seems easy: It just switches on and off at set-times.
But the system is also inhibitng fail-save measurements to save the plant. And heres the tricky part. The fridge can actually overheat while its trying to find a cycle, and thats a nono for the controller. It will turn of any heatsource that exceeds the global temperature limit. And thats the set-tempreature plus 2x the set-hysteresis. So in a running system with a 26°C ± 2°C the light will go out when ever the system breaks the 30°C limit to save the plants.
This can actually happen when theres not enough water around to keep humidity high: the heater will run longer to increase the amount of water in the air and will hit the temp-limit before the humidity levels can be reached. This will perodically lead to on/off cycles of the lights! So be aware of your cycles!

CO2 and Heating

CO2 is kind of entangled from the rest. The gas wont interfere with temperature and humidity and will be dialed in by the controller according to the set value and hysteresis.
The heater is your last bastion to figure out your values/moisture levels in the system. If the controller thinks, that a the heater needs to run WHILE the lights are on you have one of two problems:You need less water in the system!

LESS WATER or MORE LIGHT
The heater only reacts to temperature, so it will only go on, while the temperature drops too low. This can only be the case when the fridge runs too long against the light, trying to reduce the humidity. If you can dial up the light to create more evaporation the fridge will have a harder time reducing the temps, keeping the heater off.
If theres no use to it, and the humidity levels wont fall of with a constantly running fridge and a constantly running light, you have too much water in the system, so try to remove some. But this is basically the equilibium you want to achive: Running heater only when the lights are off, trying to get a stable water-humidity-temp equilibrium going.

The fridgegrow-app

One last word about the fridgegrow-app. To set everything up you need to be connected to the controller via the app or the controllers local webiste. If you dont connect the controller to your local wifi (which i recommend for safety concerns) you have to use the internal wifi from the controller. The controller guides you through the first setup of the remote-power plugs and is pretty easy to use with a standard UI and graphs of the sensor-data. Perfect for a nerd-grower like I am! In the graphic below you can see that i turned on three graphs, temp, hum and CO2. In the graphic you can see the exact moment when I opened the fridge at 19:15 or 7:15pm. the humidity and CO2 drops significantly as I pulled everything out of it, when I opened the door. The CO2 controller will turn on immediatly while you can also see the heating element tries to work against the fridge to keep the temp low.

screenshot of fridgegrow app
View through the fridgegrow app – setup your controller, check your values – remotely

Wrap-up: Should you buy a fridge grow?

For the beginners: Yes, its possible to just watch and learn with this system. Its really an accomplishment and a good amount of work to have it running stable for the first time, but you will be given a system were you have full control of every aspect of a run, while still be able to hold smell and noise in place.

Its for the nerd who grew weed in the past, but maybe dont want to have the whole fan/tent etc. infrastructure in his family home anymore. Maybe you want to get most of a limited space? This system got you definetly covered. I will try to harvest 100g dry regurlary out of there, and this should be enought to supply a single consumer out there and I am convinced that this system is working since I got my first 60g of Humboldt Seeds OGKZ out of there and it was a more than decent smoking experience. Welcome to the 21 century growers!

The Farm – Perpetual cannabis growing at home

If you are growing at home for you personal use, you most likely own a single tent, a light (or two if you swap between veg and flower), some pots, soil etc. A single grow can be seperated into five different stages (0-4), and all of these stages take place inside that single tent. What if you manage to give every stage its own small room? This is called a perpetual grow. You swap tents respective to the stage your plant is currently in. Maximize your space and grow more efficiently.

View of a room with tents
I filled about half a room of my apartment with the tents and equipment.

Stage Zero: Cloning – The Greenhouse

For rooting cuts have a small greenhouse on the side. In this stage plants do not need ungodly amounts of light. I shine a small photolight or a desklight on them, to keep the clones from flowering. The rest of time I wait until I see roots emerging from the side and keep them moist. Not every new plant undergoes this stage, but seedlings can also be kept here if needed. Its also perfectly fine to put the greenhouse into a tent, if it has sufficient size.

indoor greenhouse with cloned plants
Some clones in a VERY DIRTY greenhouse thats really not suitable to show off online. Shame on me.

Stage One: Clones, mothers, early veg – The Living Collection

The real first step into perpertual growing is seperating veg and flower. My clone tent happens to be a 2×2 tent for me with a cheap blurple light to keep things alive. In this tent I let my clones root through their pots and keep mother plants. Not much is happening here. Keeping everything green and vital is hard enough. The lights are on 18 hours a day.

blurple light in a tent with clones and mothers
The collection: This tent is always a bit chaotic. Everything that has to be kept alive is in here.

Stage Two: Vegetative tent – The Gym

Here it gets interesting: This is also a 2×2 tent, but with a much better light. I am using my Lien-Tec Dual Quantum Cube in here to get the plants used to the amount they will receive in the flowering tent. I also repot them into a 20l (5gal) pot, once they filled out their initial pot and let them root through. In this tent most of the plant manipulation takes place. The plants will be in here for about 4-6 weeks until they move on into the flowering tent. They get topped and LSTd, pruned and schwazzed in here, whatever you feel like doing to them.
My personal strategy: Get them to fill out their respective space twice, then cut away all but a single node on top of every branch three days prior to the flowering period and swap over new plants from the Stage-One-Tent.

veg tent with vegging plants
Vegging plants in different stages. While the plants in the back are getting ready for flowering, the ones in the front just got transplanted.

Stage Three: Flowering – The Sunhouse

Where the magic happens: Every plant going in here is fully vegged, trained and ready to go. No timeloss here, everything is running at a 12 hour light cycle forever – no darkness periods or whatsoever. The plants in here most get spread abit with gardening wires or hooks. They also get the day 21 and day 42 defoliation and of course: water. But thats also basically it. Keep the tent clean! You will not have off-periods after a harvest to do that. So once a month, take everything out, get your antibacterials in here and clean your garden.

My current flowering tent runs on 6x CXB 3950 Cree COBs condensed into 2x Pro Emit Sunbars 150-B and 2x HLG QB288 V2. Totalling about 570W this tent is packed with light.

flowering tent with plants, lights and a fan
The beginning of a perpetual grow: Emptyness in the flowering tent. The number of plants will rise with time.

Stage Four: Drying – The Barn

This is more or less a small darkroom where 3-4 plants should fit in, drying. You are used to hang every thing from a tent inside said tent for the initial drying period. This is a huge off-time where your tent is blocked for veg/flowering purposes! My small IKEA-hack (article is pending…) involves a kitchen cabinet with wheels and a big hole on top to connect to one of the tents. This way you get a suction airflow, thats perfect for drying bud initially. The room does not have to be as big, since you only harvest 2-3 plants at once using that method. To dial everything in, you will need about 3-4 month of planning. In the first iteration you can even stat mulitple plants in each of the stages and cumulate them after a while in the flowering tent. This is your last step to perpetual grow: get drying out of the flowering area.

Useful tricks

Plan ahead

So with one single tent you have plenty of time to choose new genetics. In this operation you have to choose genetics about every two weeks, so be prepared! Work out a plan for several month ahead and stick to it. You will learn how the system dials in, and how long each plant can veg etc…

picture of a calendar
You can print out sheets of these calendar-pages to keep track of every plant. You can find them here.

Maintain a journal of everything

Once you gro perpetual, you will handle much more plants in every possible stage at once. They all have different needs. Keep track in what stage every plant is at the moment. Write down things like date of germination, date of switching stages, how many days they were in each stage, etc. Keep track!

Have fun!

With this perpetual grow method you should be able to not only keep more genetics in your operation but also have a steady refill of your stash instead of a massive haul every 3rd to 4th months.

DIY Cannabis Grow Timelapse with a Raspberry Pi

In this guide, you will learn about the basics to timelapse your grow. Furthermore you will learn how to setup Linux on a Raspberry Pi Minicomputer, remote control it via VNC and how to use it as an FTP server.

 

List of items

To copy my workflow of approximately 10 minutes a week you need the following items:

Raspberry Pi 3 Model B is used as an automated photographer and FTP-Server for easy access.
  1. Raspberry Pi Minicomputer (buy @ amazon.com , 35 $) (Raspi) – This is the heart if this project. This device captures the photos at the right time ,saves the photos and is also your local Fileserver. There are different versions of the Raspberry Pi. Its important that the device can run WLAN. The best Pi to do this is the Raspberry Pi 3 Model B which brings the most calculating power.
  2. Raspberry Pi Wide Lens Camera (buy @ amazon.com, 23 $) – There are also some PiCams without a wide lense, but the optic helps alot in very
    picture of raspberry pi cam
    Raspberry Pi Cam with wide lense optics

     

     

     

     

     

     

    narrow rooms with less space

  3. A Power source for the Pi – You actually will not get this with a purchase of a Raspberry Pi! Make sure to have a power plug with a Micro-USB dongle which can deliver 5 V (Volts) and between 700 – 1000 ma (Milliampere). Any old smartphone loading plug should do it.
  4. HDMI-Cable, USB-Mouse and USB-Keyboard – You will need that only for setup. Once you setup the Pis remote control, you can use these for other purposes.
  5. Micro SD-CardThis is your hard drive of the Pi. Make sure you have one extra because this will stay in the Pi for the course of the run. 32 GB should be OK. for a whole run.
  6. WLAN Router – Since you cant access the filesystem on the card, without a linux based system, you will need to establish an FTP connection to the Pi. This is also pretty convenient because you dont have to interact with the Pi while its in the grow room anyways
  7. Micro USB power plug
    Micro – USB Power Plug

     

    PC, Notebook, etc … – This is necessary for moving pictures and merge the images in a reasonable time.

  8. Micro SD-Card reader – You need this to install the operating system on the Micro-SD Card. 

 

 

Preparations – One Time Setup

Get the Pi ready

Everything in the Chapter Preparations you only need to do once.

  1. Download the operating System. You get the files here: https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/raspbian/ . The Version is called Raspian Stretch with Desktop as .zip and unzip it after downloading.
  2. In the meantime you download the software Etcher from https://etcher.io. You need that to get the OS on the SD-Card.
    Etcher User Interface – if you fuck up here you’re not made for this.
  3. After its done, put the Card in the Pi.
  4. Connect the HDMI-cable to a screen and then to the Pi alongside your USB-mouse and USB-keyboard.
  5. Plug-in the power and wait…

 

Raspberry Pi configuration

Congratz! You got a computer on your hands with the power of a five year old smartphone. Very much enough for this guide tho. The Pi wants to change the default setting at first start – its recommended but not necessary. The default login is username: pi, password: raspberry.This will be important later.

raspberry pi configuration screenshot
Menu of the Raspian OS. Click on the raspberry symbol on the upper left > Preferences > Raspberry Pi Configuration
  1. In the configurations menu (caption of the picture) you can change the login.
  2. We will access the system time to shoot our photos. Make sure to change it to your local timezone: Click on Localisation > Timezone and choose the respective timezone.
  3. In the field Interface you activate the options Camera, SSH und VNC.
  4. Also in interfaces there is the option Keyboard. Set it to your needs! Coding is hard, if you’re using an EU keyboard with US (default) settings.
  5. On the Desktop to the upper right is a symbol to the WLAN connection. Connect it to your local WLAN.

Reboot the Pi to have all settings activated. You’re done configuring this for now. We’re heading to test the camera.

 

 

Testing the Camera – Your first picture

Connect the camera to the Pi. Make sure the connection adapter is tight aroung the cable. You can actually pull the sides of the connector out and back in after you set up the cable. Try it!

  1. Start the Pi by plugging in the power plug if not done yet.
  2. Start the Terminal  (tool bar to the upper left) and update/upgrade the OS by typing in a row and confirm with enter:
    sudo apt-get update
    sudo apt-get upgrade
  3. This might take a few moments.
  4. Test the camera by typing in the terminal
    raspistill -v -o test.jpg

    This code will create the file test.jpg and saves it the given place (home/pi). Open the file to check out the picture!

  5. Call your local IP adress via typing
    hostname -l

    in the Terminal and write it down for the moment.

If the camera works, we now need to setup the automation and remote control.

 

 

VNC, SSH, FTP – Remote access

Our key target is to have the Pi shoot pictures inside the tent automatically. This is why the next step is to put the pi into the tent. You dont need the periphery keyboard, mouse or monitor anymore. Its your job now to find a nice perspective for the pi. Mine is below my DIY COB Light. Another Pi-Cam got installed on the wall. Mind that a Raspberry Pi can only handle one distinct Pi-Cam, but more than one USB-Webcam.

Remember this might be the final position. Test that, and make sure that it never moves.

picture of led light diy grow light picture of pi cam setup raspberry pi camera

  1. If everything is alright in the room, you can now switch on the Pi by plugging in the power source. There is no need to have a keyboard, mouse or monitor to be attached anymore,
  2. Download VNC-Viewer to your home PC or notebook (not the Pi). Remember to have the Pis IP adress around as well as the password and username for the connection. You can access the IP adress via your router config or by typing hostname -l in the Pis terminal.
  3. If you are connected tryout the code for shooting a picture again and calibrate the camera very carefully. You can turn on the lense to make the picture more sharp.
  4. Test the FTP connection: Download FileZilla or something similar (Filezilla download: https://filezilla-project.org/download.php) Don’t choose the pro version, its not needed.
    1. After you started Filezilla click File > Servermananger to connect.
    2. Protocol: SFTP – SSH File Transfer Protocol
    3. Server <local adress of the Pi>
    4. Connections: (normal: not as safe) but most convenient.

Now you should be connected to the Pi via your PC/notebook. You can now access the filesystem of the Pi via FileZilla and remote control it via VNC.

 

 

Creating the scheduler for the pictures

Now we are ready to script our photo scheduler using the software crontab on the Raspberry Pi. This software is able to execute operations at given time intervals. Perfect for timelapses.

Create a folder and change the restriction on it immediatly

We cant always create, read and write folders or files on the Pi, so we need to manipulate the accessability on a given folder first. Via rightclick > properties > permissions you can solve this. In the target folder for the pictures everything should be available for everyone.

Create the file “camera.sh” for capturing the photos

In the target folder (where you changed the read/write rights): Rightclick > Create New… > Empty File and name it camera.sh

  1. Open the file camera.sh in Text Editor and write the
    following:
    #!/bin/bash
    export LD_LIBRARY_PATH=/usr/lib/
    cd <Path of the folder>
    DATE=$(date +"%Y-%m-%d_%H%M")
    raspistill -n -q 100 -o <Path of the folder>$DATE.jpg
  2. Just exchange
    <Path of the folder> 

    with the path to the place where camera.sh is. This code creates filenames like: 2018-10-15_2250.jpg and will therefore list the pics chronologically inside the folder.

  3. Test the script: Open up the Terminal. Navigate to the right folder via cd <Path of the folder> and confirm with Enter. After this you type in:
    sudo sh camera.sh

    into the Terminal. If everything works as intended there should now be a .jpg with a timestamp in the right folder!

Configure crontab to finalize automazation

In order to do this last step of preparation you need to be remote connected to the Pi via VNC. Open up the terminal and write:

sudo crontab -e

If you get asked what editor to choose, take nano. The terminal should change to this:

Linux terminal screenshot
The linux terminal.

Be careful when editing this file! Scroll to the bottom of the file and press Enter to end up with a newline without a “#” symbol upfront.
Disclaimer: Youre probably using other light cycles. And we want the camera only to shoot when its bright for the plants.

*/20 21,22,23,0-8 * * * sh <Path to the folder>/camera.sh

How does this code work?

  • */20 takes a photo every 20 minutes in a given hour
  • 21,22,23,0-8 says that it only shoots pictures between 21:00h and 08:XXh. Change this, if youre different cycles!
  • * * * takes care of weekdays, months and years. You put in asteriks so that you dont need to bother for this on the course of your run.
  • sh initializes the shellscript of the camera.sh file
  • <Path to folder>/camera.sh tells the cronjob what is to execute. In our case the photographing script.

 

Weekly tasks

Via the software FileZilla you should backup your files regulary. I do it once a week. If you config crontab my way, you will shoot about 18 pictures a day.

ffmpeg and rename.bat – Creating the timelapse

Turn on your PC/Notebook.
In order to use ffmpeg follow the instructions here. You only need to do it one to make it work: https://video.stackexchange.com/questions/20495/.
ffmpeg works the easiest with filenames that are numbered in order. To transform the filenames you need to create a file which you call rename.bat and write in the following code:

@echo off
setlocal EnableDelayedExpansion

set i=0
for %%a in (*.jpg) do (
set /a i+=1
ren "%%" "!i!.new"
)
ren *.new *.jpg

Now create your first timelapse:

  1. Copy all pictures to the folder with rename.bat in it. Never run rename.bat in your backup folder. It will destroy everything.
  2. start CMD and navigate to the timelapse folder: type in
    cd <Path to the folder containing the renamed pictures>
  3. type in the following to initate the timelapse process:
    ffmpeg -r 60 -i %d.JPG -s 1440x1080 -vcodec libx264 timelapse.mp4

This will create a 60 FPS videofile named “timelapse.mp4” with the resolution 1440×1080 under the x264 codec out of the renamed frames.

Maintenance and cleanup

It happens rarely, but you will find frames which you dont want to use in the timelapse. You need to sort them out before you rename the images and merge them. The ffmpeg code will not work if hes not fed with consecutive numbers.

 

Grower watering his plants
The grower got caught watering the plants. This will not look good in the final timelapse.